E82 N55 DCT w/M3 GTS

azshantris

Private
Aug 27, 2019
42
'This is some placeholder text that I'll be editing and adding to as I work on compiling all the info between my home and work phones -work in progress'

This will be a long post, and fairly picture heavy.

**This was not pioneered by me! I'm just sharing my version and compilation**

I am indebted to all the brilliant minds of this forum who worked hard testing with their own vehicles to discover what all was necessary for this to work. I do not want to steal any credit for all the problem solving that was done by everyone originally involved in this, I'm just here to share my story and process and maybe make it even easier for anyone in the future to accomplish this swap.

Thank you to all the people I've seen posting things that's I've taken to use (let me know if I missed anyone):
@aus335iguy
@Bimaxtremeretro
@BMWJunkie
@boostE92d
@derekgates
@doublespaces
@dyezak
@Hpaula
@jyamona
@LMB335is
@NoQuarter
@RSL
@Stokes
@TireDeathRacing


Background:
I've been casually following the builds on this stuff pretty much since I got my car 2 years ago but hadn't actually stepped into it until recently. Early February 2020 I was reading back through every bit I could get of stuff related to this and started to piece together all the necessary information and parts needed for this conversion. It took me about a month to get all my parts and get them all installed. I've been running the car daily since completion (3/8/20).

This guide will sufficiently cover what I've done to my e82. For the e9x guys out there most of it is the same, just a little easier because the parts swap directly. E82 swap requires some sanding, dremeling, gluing and forming. It is not for the faint of heart and is definitely not as easily reversible. I went for w bare bones version so far, meaning no LSD, and still using my stock DSC module and coding.

Links/resources not written by me:
*Add links*
Realoem.com (BMW parts and cross reference catalog (maybe not necessary))
M3 gts stuff:
OG guide thread- https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/n54-dct-w-m3-conversion.3380/
Parts list to cover e9x extras- https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/parts-required-for-m3gts-conversion-in-135-335.3016/

Parts:
This is all I used.
Kombi (Gauge Cluster)- 62107841245
Shift Knob- 25122283705
GWS (Shift Mechanism)- 61317842102
8pin connector- 61136954526
ShiftLogic Button- 61317835039
6pin connector- 61132359992
(2.81 335D open) Differential- 33107571176

Procedure:
Personally the order I went in. I took it on theory and speculation that a 2.81 ratio rear differential would function with both non-M and M transmission software so I took a shot in the dark and tried it and luckily it was correct. I drove daily for a couple weeks with the 2.81 with no issues on stock software. I was completing each phase as parts came in and starting Friday nights so I would have plenty of time in case of catastrophe.

1. Diff swap
2. Cluster Swap
3. Shifter, button
4. Coding
5. Finishing touches

Diff swap:

I chose to use the closest ratio known to be working to 2.56 which is a 2.81 because my car is my daily driver and I don't want to spin 4k rpm on my highway commute. I've come to actually enjoy that little oomph in acceleration from the change in ratio as well.
The differential I chose based on forum (thanks @Stokes) info is out of a 335d and I had to study and do some cross referencing and a bit of inferring to determine compatibility. Now this is still an open, non-LSD diff and does not use the heavier duty M3 axles. This is not ideal, but it IS much cheaper and easier for the time being. No custom driveshaft necessary.

Tools:
Jack
Jack stands
External Torx E12
50mm wrench (large, thin adjustable works)
Regular mechanics tools, sockets, etc
A buddy if you're lucky enough to have one
Beers

I did the whole diff swap on a friday evening by myself with 2 floor jacks and 2 jackstands. The axle bolts are External Torx E12. The driveshaft nut is a 50mm. Walmart sells a big crescent wrench for 20$ 😅 There are 2 medium bolts on the front, and 1 larger bolt on the back going through the cover.
Sorry, I don't recall the exact sizes but I used wrenches and sockets between 16mm and 24mm I think.

It didnt come packaged the best, but I wasn't gonna bitch at 145$ shipped.
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Pro tip, a little litter pan makes for a great diff oil catch.
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I pulled the diff cover to inspect my used diff that had roughly 70k miles and it looked great so I sealed it back up with black rtv. I was also wishing upon a star to magically find a bolted version in here... nope.
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The key to this part is that the output shafts must be swapped with your stock differential. The stock output shafts are an 86mm bolt pattern while the 335D uses a 94mm bolt pattern. It's a very easy swap with a slide hammer and a mallet. Just pop them out, swap, and tap them back in.

My damn fancy slide hammer claws were just a tad too big to use, so I improvised with some scrap wood. It hardly took any force to get these out and the c-clip style lock wire that holds them in appeared to be in good condition.
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I wire wheeled and brake-cleaned the cover for good measure.
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I brought the rear up high enough to lay on my ever so comforting cardboard and have clearance to get to the diff.
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I am a terrible lazy ass so instead of completely removing the heat shield, I simply undid a couple bolts and flexed it out of my way.
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Working a little magic with 2 Jack's to bring the diff down evenly. It has to clear the exhaust by moving to the passenger side a bit.
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Here's a comparison of the output stub axles, they're fairly hard to distinguish. In my research the 335D uses a larger flange, but the axles that it connects to are actually thinner.
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They popped in pretty easily. I think I actually tapped them with a rubber mallet.
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New-to-me diff in place, just add some redline 75w-90 until it starts to flow out, plug it, and go!
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Cluster swap:

*still debating showcasing the coding side of milage and vin reset*

A cluster swap may not be technically necessary, but it wouldn't feel complete without it. However, the e82 screen is smaller and I'm not sure what it would do trying to display the M3 software (larger gear indicator and shiftlogic level).
Getting the M3 cluster into the e82 is a pain, but worth it. I initially did the cluster swap and coded it to work with my car before the trans flash, and then recoded again after the trans flash for the larger gear display.
The hardest part is getting the cluster to fit. A large amount of sanding has to be done all around the outer edges, and particularly on the bottom corners. Using your stock e82 cluster as a reference is about the best you can do.
Personally I used a dremel with a little sanding wheel and just took my time, probably a few hours total before I got a decent fit. I opted to use no screws because they don't line up, and I got lucky with mine having a nice snap-in fit. I actually even dremeled the braces behind the screw holes off for a kore flush fitment. Im.pretty happy with how it turned out, though I could use some black felt on the bottom for a minor gap filler.

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My rubber coating on the top was peeling so I took it all off and used some plastic polish on it.
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Viola!
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*I highly recommend if you don't want to buy a programmer, can't solder, and don't want to deal with integrated circuits look up ClustersAndCoding to get one done by Bill @LMB335is . He's a great resource and will give you any kind of customization you'd like with different light colors and gauge faces, all at great prices.*

Shift Mechanism and button:
*add shift diy(no link, this is primary info here)*

Here's the real 'fun' part.
There is trimming required along with the repinning of wires for fitment and use. In the e9x cars the whole M3 center console trim can be swapped in without modification. That is not the case in the e82. The leather boot from the M3 would NOT work in my case so I had to cut it short and stitch it into the leather that I also had to cut from my stock shifter. The hole for the Shiftlogic button needs to be opened up, and there is trimming here and there.

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Stock shifter removed, literally just pull up. Don't hit yourself in the head!
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So unfortunately to get the shifter out of the e82 you need to remove the entire center console. A quick google led me to a youtube video that step by by steps it and isn't all too bad. You'll need some torx bits and a few new zipties for wires and the handbrake boot.
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The shift mechanism is held in by 3 bolts, T30 I believe. They are TIGHT because they're not compatible metals used appropriately together, bit I still reused them, oops.
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If you were determined to swap your flex disc aka guibo, you could totally do it from the topside this way lol
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You have to get under the car to swap the park cable, it's just a little clip removable with a screwdriver and a small torx bolt. I did not have to remove any underbody panels. You can fish the cable into place from the top and then attach it from the bottom.
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Stock 4 pin connector that goes into the 'Sport' button
*pinout stolen from @dyezak hope you don't mind*
P1 - Brown/Black - GROUND (this was P2 on the 335is Sport button)
P2 - EMPTY
P3 - Grey/Blue - GWS+ (This was P3 on the 335is Sport button)
P4 - Grey/Red - FOOTWELL MODULE (This was P4 on the 335is Sport button)
P5 - Grey/Yellow - GWS- (This was P1 on the 335is Sport button)
P6 - EMPTY
Swap pics farther down
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Park button wires. These can be found to have plenty of extra wire length, just unwrap the wiring on the passenger side where it goes into, pull it out and rewrap it (pics below). This is plug and play no repinning.
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Original 10 pin connector gets swapped to an 9 pin connector for the M3 unit.
*pinout also stolen from @dyezak hope you don't mind*
P1 - Red/White 335is (Red/Yellow on M3) - POWER
P2 - White/Brown - DKG TRANSMISSION CONTROL
P3 - Red - PT_CAN HIGH
P4 - Blue/Red - PT_CAN LOW
P5 - Green/Red - CAS
P6 - Brown/Black - GROUND
P7 - Grey/Yellow - DRIVELOGIC/SPORT
P8 - Grey/Blue - DRIVELOGIC/SPORT
(P3 and P4 are a twisted pair, these are your PT_CAN wires and are twisted to help eliminate electrical interference in the bus)

P9 and P10 (unused in the conversion) were your 335is wires to control the PARK button.

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Pulling the park wires out.
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Rerouted and rewrapped.
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This was my temporary rig up for testing using wire wrap because I accidentally ordered a female connector.
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Fitment issue 1, the trim must be cut to fit the hump at the rear of the M3 shift mechanism. The trim ring for the shift boot also needs to be trimmed in the same spot.
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Don't mind my custom temp mounting solution. I actually drove like this for a week and a half 😅
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I originally attempted to glue the M3 leather to the stock trim piece but it simply would not fit into the outer trim because the M3 leather is about twice as thick. So I ended up cutting it down to the last half inch or sobhangin off the knob, and cutting my stock leather off it's knob and sewing them together. I'll have this redone professionally eventually because I'm awful at sewing haha
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Here's the 6 pin connector for the ShiftLogic Button
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To mount the new button the trim has to be cut out at the bottom left corner to clear the button or the whole trim simply won't fit into place.
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I got some sugru (thanks for the tip @derekgates) and molded the trim to fit the button after having to cut the hole to allow for the new button shape. Then I hot glued it to the backside.
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And here she is, all buttoned up. Just crossed 95k in this photo 😁
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Coding:
*add my own coding process and links*

*add a million pictures or apparently the maximum of 80 lol*
 

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Last edited:

azshantris

Private
Aug 27, 2019
42
Thanks everybody! I'm still working on it. I've got all the pictures in that I think I want to and the majority of the process. I'm still debating adding info on the cluster vin and mileage coding because of it's relatively sensitive nature. I know it took me hours and hours to find all the answers to that one and I want to share but it's kinda sketchy stuff.
I also want to add my own coding section, probably just text based since I maxed my pics already. Maybe I'll just link the OG document for this stuff, there was only one change in it and that was the motorsport bit in the kombi coding.
If I step on anyone's toes at any point or you feel you need any and/or more credit anywhere just let me know and I'll definitely get it in there. I don't want to steal anyone's work, I just wanna share it all in one easy to follow spot.
 

derekgates

Sergeant
Feb 23, 2018
272
NW FL
Thanks everybody! I'm still working on it. I've got all the pictures in that I think I want to and the majority of the process. I'm still debating adding info on the cluster vin and mileage coding because of it's relatively sensitive nature. I know it took me hours and hours to find all the answers to that one and I want to share but it's kinda sketchy stuff.
I also want to add my own coding section, probably just text based since I maxed my pics already. Maybe I'll just link the OG document for this stuff, there was only one change in it and that was the motorsport bit in the kombi coding.
If I step on anyone's toes at any point or you feel you need any and/or more credit anywhere just let me know and I'll definitely get it in there. I don't want to steal anyone's work, I just wanna share it all in one easy to follow spot.
I certainly don't speak for everyone but sharing knowledge for this platform is the goal of this project and forum... It is immensely helpful!

The cluster swapping, sure... that sounds like a gray area but the rest of the info is great to see. :)
 

derekgates

Sergeant
Feb 23, 2018
272
NW FL
No ones toes stepped on at all. The coding part needs the most work so if you could update the guide that’d be awesome. As you’ve seen there’s quite the level of interest in this and only a handful of people have actually completed it.
Yes, for sure.

I will be back in the saddle soon and can help with the coding stuff as well... but it's been 2 years since the last time I attempted the M3 GWS swap (time flies by!). This time I hope to take excellent photos/notes like @azshantris did.
 

azshantris

Private
Aug 27, 2019
42
Most importantly....how does it drive ????
It's great!
Soft casual shifts when you want your daily, and big nasty violent when you want to show someone who's boss. There are a few quirks that I'm not sure are issues such as if you get on it a little and then lift as it tries to shift it will actually rev up like it's in neutral for a second and then come back down. I don't believe that it's slipping at all. The more I drive and get used to.it the more normal it feels. And I believe it's slowly adapting to my driving as well because it's shifting more like where I would want it to. I came to find that you have to have the logic up a little bit (4-6) for most of the rev matching to kick in I think.
The overall behavior takes a little more getting used to, granted I didn't do any adaptation reset meaning that when you want an automatic downshift you have to dig a little deeper for it and it will go down more gears than I used to expect. Not a problem, just gotta learn it. Also if you do a quick pedal kick it will drop gears and then actually stay there for a little while for you to control via throttle vs old software would shift back up pretty quickly.

The kickdown grabs muuuuch better than my stock software which would actually overheat because of slipping which i guess was a factory thing based on factory torque but I'm not stock. This just grabs and goes and I love it, it's a key feature I was hoping for because in my dad's auto 335i that torque wall is really nice and the DCT didn't used to have it.

I drive most of the time D3 as I find it the closest to stock feel, but perhaps as if the sport button was pushed. I notice my wastegate keeps closed more frequently so it definitely keeps on the boost in more scenarios. Where at 70mph on the highway it would fluctuate 0-1psi depending on throttle it now fluctuates more in the 1-2psi range. I think what I'm seeing is that it generally always behaves now how it would have with the sport button pushed before.
I'm hoping to get to an autocross whenever this damn virus goes away here in Washington so I can really see how it feels.
And for butt dyno purposes, between how quick the shifts are (some research I did on how it "surges" so that you actually never stop accelerating through a shift) and the new diff ratio: well my girlfriend says when I get on it now she can't lift head from the headrest 😂😁 and I'm just a st2+ fbo.
 

JPuehl

New Member
Jul 24, 2019
1
It's great!
Soft casual shifts when you want your daily, and big nasty violent when you want to show someone who's boss. There are a few quirks that I'm not sure are issues such as if you get on it a little and then lift as it tries to shift it will actually rev up like it's in neutral for a second and then come back down. I don't believe that it's slipping at all. The more I drive and get used to.it the more normal it feels. And I believe it's slowly adapting to my driving as well because it's shifting more like where I would want it to. I came to find that you have to have the logic up a little bit (4-6) for most of the rev matching to kick in I think.
The overall behavior takes a little more getting used to, granted I didn't do any adaptation reset meaning that when you want an automatic downshift you have to dig a little deeper for it and it will go down more gears than I used to expect. Not a problem, just gotta learn it. Also if you do a quick pedal kick it will drop gears and then actually stay there for a little while for you to control via throttle vs old software would shift back up pretty quickly.

The kickdown grabs muuuuch better than my stock software which would actually overheat because of slipping which i guess was a factory thing based on factory torque but I'm not stock. This just grabs and goes and I love it, it's a key feature I was hoping for because in my dad's auto 335i that torque wall is really nice and the DCT didn't used to have it.

I drive most of the time D3 as I find it the closest to stock feel, but perhaps as if the sport button was pushed. I notice my wastegate keeps closed more frequently so it definitely keeps on the boost in more scenarios. Where at 70mph on the highway it would fluctuate 0-1psi depending on throttle it now fluctuates more in the 1-2psi range. I think what I'm seeing is that it generally always behaves now how it would have with the sport button pushed before.
I'm hoping to get to an autocross whenever this damn virus goes away here in Washington so I can really see how it feels.
And for butt dyno purposes, between how quick the shifts are (some research I did on how it "surges" so that you actually never stop accelerating through a shift) and the new diff ratio: well my girlfriend says when I get on it now she can't lift head from the headrest 😂😁 and I'm just a st2+ fbo.
Where do you live in WA.? I live by Tacoma and autocross in Bremerton and would love to see your car, as well as do this myself some day. I have a '12 LMB 135i with DCT that my wife and I have raced in Bremerton for the past 4 years or so.
 
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azshantris

Private
Aug 27, 2019
42
Where do you live in WA.? I live by Tacoma and autocross in Bremerton and would love to see your car, as well as do this myself some day. I have a '12 LMB 135i with DCT that my wife and I have raced in Bremerton for the past 4 years or so.
I'm in Port Orchard! The autocross and drag I've been to is at the Bremerton Raceway. I'm sure it's the same place.
I've actually only been to one of each event due to work schedule and just not getting out enough. Which club do you race with? There's a few that use that track. I think I went with the bscc
 

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